Archive for November, 2008

This One’s For Me.

The perfect ‘wallet’ would be big enough to hold my checkbook, pocket calendar, cel phone and an pocketaltoids box full of ID and various cards, but still small enough to fit into a handbag.  The one I have would be perfect if it didn’t have a zipper (really, it’s just that much too small to slip my check book into easily), so I’ve decided to make a new one.

I found a beautiful pattern, the ‘Cleo Clutch‘, which is gorgeous but may be too big.  May not be (it’s felted, so who can tell for sure?)


Of course, I can never leave a good thing alone, so I’m working a pocket into it, for bills.   I’ve altered the pattern after the two garter stitch rows.

After the first eight stitches on the next (RS) row I placed a marker, then took my second color and cast on one stitch, then with the second ball of yarn in back I worked a stitch in purple, then cast on another teal stitch (with purple yarn held in front) and so on.  Eight stitches from the end I placed another marker and worked the rest of the row, in purple, as per the pattern.

So each row I ‘double knit’, holding the non-working yarn in front or in back (depending on whether it’s an even or odd row), and just do both at once.  I make sure to ‘wrap’ the teal and purple, as though working intarsia, twice on each row, once before the first and once after the last teal stitch.

The cabling is a bit tricky. I actually work without a cable needle, but you could do the same thing with one.  For a C4B (for example) I knit the last teal stitch before the cable, then slip four purple and three teal stitches off the left hand needle.  I slip the second ‘free’ purple stitch onto the left hand needle, holding it in front of the third and fourth (just as I usually would for a cable in front) then I swing the left hand needle around in back and slip the third teal stitch onto it, then back in front of the work and slip the first purple onto it, then in back and get the second teal stitch, then the fourth purple, first teal, third purple.  Now I’ve got my cable all set up and ready to go and I work it as per normal.

I hope this makes sense.  I’ve got some WIP pictures here.  If anyone wants more info on the cabling please leave a comment.


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Not a Hat Yet.

pre-felted hat

I just finished crochetting a fedora, and am about to start the felting process.  It is a rather shapeless lump at this point, more of a floppy bag than a hat.
I’ve wobbled the pattern a bit, based on some comments from others on Ravelry who have made it.  I dropped two inches off of the height.  You can’t see it in the picture, but there is actually a hint of a brim which is supposed to become clearer once it felts.

I’ll probably felt it over the next several days, as more jeans and towels need to be washed.  I’ll try to photograph the blocking process if I can.

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Note to self – when you decide to double the yarn to get a thicker gauge, DOUBLE the yarn you buy!

The cast on is beautiful.  The cabling is coming along nicely.  The yarn shop can’t lay hands on the same color of Lang Pearl…   I’m very sad right now.

So, I’ve got two other projects going in parallel.  A simple, repetitive pattern called ‘dream swatch’ and a crochetted hat.   I’ll call the LYS again today.

Lion Brand Incredible City Lights

Lion Brand Incredible City Lights

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OK, I think i’ve got a handle on it this time.

The thing is, I’m trying to do a non-standard cast-on.   It’s a modified version of Elizabeth Zimmermans (EZs) “invisible cast on” for ribbing,  Zimmerman, for some reason, knit several rows with her waste yarn before switching to the working yarn.  Then she knit several rows of stockinette with the working yarn (how many depended on the weight of the yarn in question) and, while on a reverse side row, alternated between knitting the working stitches with the ‘live’ stitches revealed when she removed the waste yarn.  She alternated between knitting and purling and set up her rib pattern that way.

Use a contrasting waste yarn to make it as easy as humanly possible on yourselfRather than knitting several waste rounds, I started with a crochet cast on, and knit three ‘set up’ rows using the reverse of the knit/purl pattern I would normally use for a set up.

I worked more carefully than I usually do with crochet cast ons.  I made sure to pick up the stitches only through the back loop of the chain, and I marked the ‘end’ of the chain with a knot in the yarn.  Then I oriented my knitting so that it would unravel in the direction of the knitting.  The tail you see at the left of the picture is the end of the knitting round, so it’s the beginning of the chain (the side which wasn’t marked with the knot).  Note the neat and even chain?  That’s your check that you only caught the back loops of the stitches.  It makes the chain much easier to remove… Trust me on this one.

Insert needle in bottom loop just freed from the crochet chain.

Once you’ve got enougth knit, pull the crochet chain  out s-l-o-w-l-y from the knotted end.  As in, one stitch at a time.  Pick up the freed stitch with the right needle, and slip (as if to knit) it onto the left needle.  Then knit (or purl) it together with the stitch next to it.  Since you’re pulling the stitches around towards the front of the needle, the ‘right’ side of the stitches will be on the inside of the closed tube you’re making, which is why you worked the opposing stitch from the one you would need in the set-up row.  If you lifted the stitches to the back, there wouldn’t be any need to reverse stitches.   It sounds easeir, but I found it to be counter-intuitive.

In the end, you have a more or less neat edge, with the ribbing pattern part of the cast on.

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I’ve just frogged a hat I’m making for the second time.

This time, after three rounds, I realized that I was knitting a Moebius.  I’ll never know why it took me three rounds to recognize it.

Very frustrating.

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